Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.